Kokis is one of the most recognisable snacks on a Sri Lankan New Year table — a lacy, deep-fried crisp made from rice flour and coconut milk, shaped by a distinctive iron mould. Light, crunchy, and mildly sweet, it disappears fast at any Sinhala and Tamil New Year gathering. Despite its deep roots in local culture, food historians trace kokis back to Dutch colonial influence, making it a quiet reminder of Sri Lanka's layered culinary past.
What is the history behind kokis?
The word kokis is thought to derive from the Dutch koekjes, meaning small cakes or cookies. Dutch traders and settlers who arrived in Sri Lanka from the 17th century onwards brought with them the technique of using decorative iron moulds dipped in hot oil — a method found in similar fried sweets across Southeast Asia and Scandinavia. Sri Lankan cooks adapted the recipe to local pantry staples: rice flour in place of wheat, and thick coconut milk for richness. Over generations, kokis became firmly embedded in the New Year ritual, placed alongside kavum, athirasa, and other traditional sweets on the ceremonial tray.
What ingredients do you need to make kokis?
The ingredient list is short, which is part of the appeal. Quality matters more than quantity here — use freshly pressed thick coconut milk if possible, and fine rice flour (not glutinous rice flour) for the best texture.
- Rice flour — 200 g
- Thick coconut milk — ¾ cup
- Egg (optional) — 1
- Turmeric powder — ½ tsp
- Sugar — 1½ tbsp
- Salt — ½ tsp
- Oil — for deep frying
The egg is optional but helps the batter cling to the mould more reliably, which is useful for first-time makers. Turmeric gives kokis its characteristic golden colour without adding any noticeable flavour at this quantity.
What equipment do you need?
The kokis mould is the key piece of equipment. Traditional moulds are cast iron; modern nonstick versions work well and are easier to clean. The mould is typically a flower or star shape, though regional variations exist. You will also need a heavy-bottomed wok or deep saucepan — cast iron or carbon steel holds heat evenly, which matters for consistent frying.
How do you make kokis step by step?
- Mix the wet ingredients. If using an egg, whisk it together with the sugar in a bowl until combined. Add the salt and turmeric powder and stir to incorporate.
- Add the dry ingredients. Pour in the rice flour and coconut milk gradually, stirring as you go. Mix by hand — this gives you better control over the consistency. The finished batter should resemble a thin dosa or crepe batter: pourable and smooth, with no lumps.
- Rest the batter. Allow the batter to rest for around 10 minutes while the oil heats. This lets the rice flour hydrate fully.
- Heat the mould. Pour enough oil into the wok to fully submerge the mould head. Heat the oil over medium-high heat. Once hot, submerge the kokis mould in the oil for 30–40 seconds until the mould is thoroughly heated. A cold mould will not release the batter cleanly.
- Coat the mould. Lift the mould out of the oil and dip it into the batter — but only about two-thirds of the way up the mould face. Do not submerge it completely or the batter will seal over the top, trapping the mould inside the kokis once fried.
- Fry. Lower the batter-coated mould back into the hot oil. Hold it steady for a few seconds. As the kokis sets and begins to separate from the mould, it will slide off on its own or with a gentle shake. Fry until golden brown and crisp, around 2–3 minutes depending on oil temperature.
- Drain. Remove the kokis with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Reheat the mould in the oil before each new piece.
- Repeat until all the batter is used. Kokis keeps well in an airtight container for several days.
What are the most common mistakes when making kokis?
A few issues come up repeatedly for first-time makers.
- Mould not hot enough. If the mould cools between batches, the batter sticks and the kokis tears. Always re-submerge the mould in the oil for at least 20–30 seconds before each dip.
- Batter too thick. A thick batter produces a heavy, doughy kokis instead of a light crisp. If in doubt, add a splash more coconut milk and test one piece before frying the full batch.
- Batter too thin. Conversely, a very watery batter will not coat the mould at all. Add a tablespoon of rice flour at a time to correct.
- Submerging the mould completely. As noted above, batter over the top of the mould face locks it in place. Keep the dip shallow and deliberate.
- Oil temperature too low. Kokis fried in insufficiently hot oil absorbs oil and turns greasy. The oil should be hot enough that a drop of batter sizzles and rises immediately on contact.
How is kokis traditionally served?
At New Year, kokis is typically presented on a platter alongside other sweets and savouries as part of the ceremonial first meal. Outside of the festival season, it works equally well as a tea-time snack — the mild sweetness pairs naturally with a cup of Ceylon tea. Some families make a savoury version by omitting the sugar and increasing the salt slightly, though the sweet variety is far more common.
Can you vary the basic kokis recipe?
The core recipe is simple enough to adapt. A small amount of sesame seeds stirred into the batter adds a nutty depth. Some cooks use a mix of rice flour and all-purpose flour for a slightly less brittle result. Food colouring — natural or otherwise — is sometimes added for festive occasions, producing kokis in shades of red, green, or orange alongside the classic yellow. The fundamental technique, however, stays the same regardless of additions.
